5/14/2024 0 Comments Hayward control panel not working![]() My thought is that if it’s a control panel its really repeatable problem, and its part of how the system should work, if not enough heat gets exchanged the thermistor high/low heat sensors will kick and shut it down, let it cool and it’ll work again, but we’ll see. He comes out, cleans it, tests it, same issue, says its likely the control panel. To me that strikes of a heat issue, this time I called out a pool heater guy recommended by hayward, since I figured maybe it just needs a service. It’d start for 10 minutes, shut off,, turning it off it, shut off immediately. So great a few months of the wife enjoying 90o degree pool, then the gas bill came, so it got turned off cept for weekends, a few weeks later. this can also be adjusted for different flow rates. This just keeps the microswitch depressed when there is enough flow, you should hear it audibly click at system startup, might take a few seconds to get flow. This is the water flow meter, disconnect the two wires and join them together to bypass it for testing (turn off the system first) It’s a really really bad idea to bypass any of these sensors for anything more than troubleshooting. Turn to the pool filtering system, yep hasn’t been cleaned out in ages, did that waters flowing and the flow meter works again. What next, bypass the flow meter, and it works fine, you can tell if it’s the flow meter usually coz it the system light flickers on and off rapidly. The individual nozzles are removable too, for easier cleaning Its easy to remove the whole heater setup One of the gas nozzles, you can remove this to clean it, if its really dirty you should but it’s a hassle Spiders love this thing, they get in everywhere and our trees shed like crazy so its always dirty. Here is a useful PDF on how the detection works on the pilot. Yep verified it as being very similar to the “ White Rodgers 36D27 Gas Valve, Type 201” the trim screw is different Aha, I’m pretty sure it’s a White-Rodgers, they use TH TH-TR TR markings. I’m not sure if my Gas valve is aftermarket or not, I don’t see a similar one anywhere on the Hayward’s parts lists. But I am not sure, so I haven’t done this test ( which as it turns out, I now need to do. TH is marked on the top left, the manual says jump TH –TH, I believe its saying jumper TH on the left, to the bottom left orange. This is the gas valve and sensor, you could bypass this if you think there is a gas flow issue but only for testing. ![]() When the gas igniter fails a few times, it’ll lock you out for a while. It seems unlikely its gas flow, the main pipe is 1 1/2” and gas is only about 6 pressure, so should be plenty and gas pressure is harder to measure, the bigger heaters need at least 1 1/2” all the way to the heater. The nozzles that fire the gas into the heater were blocked, so I got some wire, and cleaned out the nozzles, and cleaned up the dirt elsewhere, still didn’t start, probably air in the gas lines, so a few dozen tries and it started up fine. The burners weren’t firing up, a few years of disuse and it was filthy. So once the line was all replaced, time to test the heater again. Took me a couple of days to lay the 1/2” pipe for the fire pit. After we bought the house, I laid new pipe from the pool heater to the fire pit, cleaned and pressure tested the 1 1/2” line that wasn’t damaged by the trees, the trees paid the price since the leaking gas had killed three of them, which we replaced, the story all came together as we tracked the history, the owners at the time had massive gas bills which is when the leak was discovered., but they just opted to disconnect it. The gas line was disconnected at the main with a big warning sign. Before we bought the house, I turned it on and it turned off immediately. But as fate would have it the only thing that didn’t work, was the pool heater (and the fire pit ). It came with a pool heater, so I was happy about that. When we bought out house, I wanted a pool, even though I can’t swim.
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